What's on in Nuremberg

Nuremberg is Bavaria's other big city: a red-sandstone medieval old town ringed by its original walls, timber-framed streets climbing to an imperial castle, and a history that swings from Holy Roman Empire glory to Nazi rally grounds to the war-crimes trials that followed. It smells of grilled Nurnberger sausages and roasted almonds most of the year, and turns into one long candlelit market from late November. It is compact and walkable in a way few German cities its size manage.